Doing the Right Thing!

I have to hand it to Grizzly tools, they did the right thing. Back in December, I ordered one of their 12″ drum sanders, the very slick looking Polar Bear series sander.


Even though the tool’s 12″ capacity was fairly small, the price was right and I felt like it was worth the money, if the tool performed properly.

That’s a big IF.

One thing I do when considering a tool purchase is thoroughly research the tool. So I read quite a few comments from people who had purchased this sander, like this woodworker’s blog post, and knew going into it that it might have some issues. Still, it sounded like a good value, and since the tool was so small, it wasn’t like I was going to use it all the time.

Right?

The tool was delivered very quickly, and I mounted it on a sturdy tool stand I had in the shop. The first thing I realized is that the handle that raises and lowers the conveyor table was very short, thus reducing your leverage. That made it very difficult to raise and lower the table smoothly.

Look how short this handle is!



OK, you get what you pay for, so I switched the handle out with another one I had in my shop, a few inches longer.
Problem solved.

My second issue was the Velcro that held on the sanding drum paper started de-laminating from the drum. The machine was only about two weeks old, so a call to Grizzly did the trick. I had a new Velcro drum cover in just a few days. Later, I noticed that Grizzly recommends that after you install a new piece of hook and loop paper onto the drum, you tape the ends of the drum with 3/4″ strapping tape.

Seriously?

If I did that, I would be reducing the size of the drum from an already small 12″ to about 10.5″. If that was the case, maybe they should advertise this as a 10.5″ drum sander. Here is a picture of the ends wrapped with the tape.


Whatever. I didn’t wrap the drum with tape on the ends.

Yup, you guessed it – it de-laminated again. I broke down and taped the paper.

Then – one day, the sander started tripping the circuit breaker for the outlet into which it was plugged. By the time I finally got the sander to start without tripping the breaker, the conveyor wouldn’t move.

This was starting to look like a nightmare purchase.

After experimenting with it a bit, I realized that if I manually moved the conveyor just a tiny bit, thus rotating the motor, it would start moving again. Perhaps there were some bad windings in the small drive motor?



I barely know what the hell that means, but the damn motor ran intermittently, and it was completely frustrating.

But – at least I could get the conveyor to work when I needed it to.

Finally – and this was the last straw – the small worm gear that controls raising and lowering the table just simply gave out. This, unfortunately, happened with a piece of wood in the sander. I can’t begin to tell you what a PITA it was to dislodge the piece of wood, not to mention the fact that I had a board that was partially sanded – it was one thickness on one end, and a completely different thickness on the other end.

My solution? A kick-ass pair of vice grips allowed me to manually rotate the chain and gears that raise and lower the table. I finished sanding that board manually and threw up my hands – the last straw!

All of this occurred in about five weeks of owning the machine – with approximately 3 hours of usage. Maybe not even that much. Wow.

Of course, the tool had a 30-day money back guarantee. Only I had owned the tool for about 33 days. D’oh!

Luckily, I always save all of the boxes and packing that come with the various tools I buy. A call to Grizzly gave me the necessary return authorization number, and that baby was on it’s way back to their factory pronto. It took five calls to their service department, and finally – today I received an answer – they refunded my complete purchase. At least they did the right thing. Don’t get me wrong – I am happy that they did that. Thrilled, in fact.

But wouldn’t it have been easier to simply make a better tool? I am quite satisfied that Grizzly treated me fairly, and have nothing bad to say about them. This is truly a case of getting what you pay for.

So here is my new dilemma, – if anyone out there can recommend a small drum sander that is captive on both ends (no cantilevered ends for me, ever again!) – I’d appreciate the recommendation.

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Build a Handy Circular Saw Jig

Circular Saw JigFor the novice woodworker who strolls into a tool supplier or another woodshop, the sheer number of tools (and the thought of the cost of obtaining all of those tools) …

Read Full Post

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Festool Deltex DX 93 E Orbital Delta Sander with New T-Loc Systainer

Get Free Shipping on your entire order when you place an order that includes a Festool item of $150 or more in value! Special shipping charges will apply for Express delivery and heavy/oversized items. Not valid at Rockler Retail stores or Independent Partner Resellers.

The DX 93 is a detail sander with a big appetite! It?s gear driven with true oscillating action for rapid stock removal in hard-to-reach areas. Soft, tapered sides allow precise spot sanding without fear of damage to adjacent surfaces. The spade point tip will reach deep into narrow corners, and the included slat sanding pad is only 3/16″ thick, so it can easily sneak between louvered slats. Variable speed allows you total control for a variety of applications, and the integral dust collection port works with the Festool extractors to make every job a pleasant, dust-free experience.

Save 10% off the purchase of a Dust Extractor when you purchase with a tool. Choose from the CT Mini, CT Midi, CT 26 or the CT 36.


-> Festool Deltex DX 93 E Orbital Delta Sander with New T-Loc Systainer – $290.00
-> CT Mini Dust Extractor Package Deal – SALE: $315.00
-> CT Midi Dust Extractor Package Deal – SALE: $355.00
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How to Drill a Water Well Through Rock

How to Drill a Water Well Through Rock

Jeff asks, ?While drilling a water well, my bit hit something solid and I can?t get past it. Any suggestions??

You can drill a water well through rock, but it will slow the process way down. Read on to find out more.


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the genius of mingus

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Unique Historic Marble Mantel in the Kuppersmith Project House

Unique Historic Marble Mantel in the Kuppersmith Project House

One of the most unique features of the Kuppersmith Project house is the inlayed, marble mantel in the living room. Imagine my surprise to find out that the mantel is actually much older than the 1926 house it now occupies. Watch this video to find out more.


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They Will Make a Craftsman Out of You


Editor?s note: The following account was written by Robert Wearing, the author of ?The Essential Woodworker,? which is one of the best modern books on handwork. Period. End of story. In this entry, Wearing recounts his woodworking training after World War II and his connection to Edward Barsnley. ?The Essential Woodworker? is available in our store for $23 plus shipping.

? Christopher Schwarz

After World War II, the British government offered to ex service personnel a Further Education and Training grant for those whose training had been interrupted by the war. Mine had not been but an exception made in the case of teaching. There was an acute shortage, since many teachers had been killed and young men were conscripted before they could go to college.

Wondering what to do with my life after being demobbed from the forces I made a visit to my old school. My old headmaster, looking through my old reports said, “You excelled in woodwork. Why not consider craft teaching?”

He sent me to see one of his craft teachers who said, “Go to Loughborough, nowhere else. They will make a craftsman of you.” So I applied.

I was sent a drawing to make and bring. It was a teapot stand, a rather elaborately jointed mitred frame, holding a 6? x 6″ ceramic tile. I made this in a little garden shed workshop with what tools I had and little knowledge and went for interview. It was accepted and I was in.

Before arriving I was to make a dovetailed tool box to a standard design. Three boxes were fitted under each bench.

Loughborough College in those days was three-quarters engineers and one-quarter teachers, half of the teachers were craftsmen and half were physical education.

Almost the entire entry to the college at that time were soldiers, sailors or airmen. The college (now a university) had no experience of so many mature students, having only had schoolboy entrants before, but treated us very considerately, so we had no complaints.

Our first job, from a drawing supplied, was a small book rack in agba, an African hardwood. I still had that until my house and contents were sold.

Subjects studied in the first two years were Ancient and Medieval History, English Literature, Education (with teaching practice in schools) and teaching handicraft as it was then called, also Technical Drawing.

Nothing was very formally taught, we just got on, working to our approved drawings. A tutor wandered around and could be consulted. Each workshop also had a very competent cabinetmaker, who maintained the equipment. He was a mine of information and was always most helpful. That was Mr. Finch, who was always referred to as such. Nowadays he would be a technician of varying quality.

After the book rack I made a small side table with a drawer in mahogany. The principle on which the college ran was “Training on Production.” Contacts were made with industry and orders were taken and made.

The engineers, particularly the mechanical engineers, could do this; but the craftsman teachers on their own individual work, could not. So we made furniture for the library that was proposed when building and timber restrictions ended.

During the war and for several years after timber of all sorts was rationed and difficult to buy. We students often resorted to going to auction sales, hoping to buy a large dining table with extending leaves and massive rails. The large legs would be cut up for turning. Such a piece in Cuban mahogany was indeed a good buy. This made a paneled bookcase with sliding glass doors.

I found a source of of thick oak, being the bottom of railway wagons destroyed by bombing. For years they had carried coal, the dust from which was deeply embedded.

When I took some pieces to the college sawmill, I was rudely sent away to first plane off the top charred 1/4″ ? by hand. The boss later relented and agreed to saw and thickness them as the last job before the saw and blades were sharpened. In fact it proved to be quite nice material, out of which I made several nice pieces in the garage of my hall of residence, including a small circular table, which I still have. Also a small wall hanging bureau. Having sold off the rest when I left college, I was not much out of pocket.

Handicraft students had to opt for woodwork or metalwork. After one year I and a fellow student were allowed to study both.

With regard to the tutors, they were all former Loughborough students with the exception of Cecil Gough who was a former foreman of Gordon Russell of Broadway, Gloucestershire, working similarly to the Cotswold School. He left when the firm went into manufacturing, no longer making single handmade items.

Russell designed the war-time Utility Furniture, which was well designed to make the best and most economical use of the timber in very short supply.

Ockenden, the head of the department, trained at Shoreditch College, who might be termed rivals of Loughborough for the top position.

Edward Barnsley, an outstanding designer craftsman with his own business in the New Forest, Hampshire, employing a few highly skilled men, gave a few lectures. He also discussed and advised on their designs with students. On his death a trust was set up to maintain his workshop as a high-quality training establishment.

There were very few machines in the workshops but there were machines of course in the sawmill. If you wanted 3/4″ material you planed it down with a jack plane, from 1″ boards. Strangely my workshops had a band saw. The cabinetmaker/technician seemed to spend a large part of his life sharpening this. There was a woodturning lathe, little used, but no circular saw. A small one would have eased our labours greatly, without lowering the quality.

My oak sideboard final project, planed from 1″ to 3/4″, was very heavy work which went on for a long time. There was a grindstone, which was pedal driven and very tedious and slow in operation, particularly when grinding the thick blades in wooden jack planes.

There were no ?stock? projects. All the work was designed by students and advised by Edward Barnsley. The exception to this was the library furniture made as production work. This was designed by Barnsley.

Looking back to 1947-50 I do not see how the practical training could have been bettered. There is no training of this quality now in any college. Only in the EB workshops.

Great days!

? Bob Wearing

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When you can’t find your safety glasses…

My friends always send me links to sites that show hilarious photos of ingenious ways that people fix broken things.

One is called – There, I Fixed It, which features red-neck repair solutions. It never fails to make me laugh out loud; Stella thinks I’m nuts.

My sister and her hubby live in rural (i.e. – out in the middle of effing red-neck no-where) North Carolina, which is pretty much Red Neck Central. They would probably love this site, if they had better internet service. Maybe they should try this solution.


Another one is called – I Can Fix That. It’s so entertaining, you could lose hours checking out the various “solutions” that are posted.

So my buddy Jay sent me this picture last night. He knows how safety goggle conscious I am in the woodshop. I love this solution!


Maybe these pictures make me laugh so much because my dad was always doing things like this! To everyone who has ever come up with solutions like these – thanks for the laughs!

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Antique table repair – part one

A few weeks ago, I blogged about repairing an older piece from a dining room set. After that repair was completed, the next step was to tackle the table, which was in very poor shape.


The top was split and bowed, the aprons were falling apart,


not to mention that the table runners


were in terrible shape. Talk about a make-over!

First step – take the sucker apart!

Once everything was removed, it was a little easier to see what had to be remade, and what could be salvaged.

I felt like the old apron and corner pieces had to be saved, even though there was some damage to them. Those are the main parts that tie the piece together with the rest of the pieces, so even if I just used them ornamentally, it was important.

The new table top was to include two halves, plus three new leaves.

Here they are, planed and cut to size. You can see the three leaves in the background.


Duplicating the rounded corner wasn’t too difficult. I traced it on the actual corners, to ensure that I didn’t round off the wrong edge! Now that would be a pisser!


And then I made a pattern for the radius out of a scrap piece of MDF.


A straight bit in the router, with a collar around it will allow me to cut that curve on the corners quite nicely.

The difference between the bit and the collar is 1/8″, I tested it with my set-up blocks.

And once that dimension was determined, I could clamp the pattern to the table top in the precise location.


As the Pioneer Woman would say – easy peasy. Cutting all four corners was simple.

Next step, routing the table top with an appropriate profile. Say that three times fast.

My buddy Danny brought over some ogee bits, since I didn’t have one that I thought would work. But none of his were what I was looking for, either.

Still, I routed a few samples, to make sure.

And then… the “god-of-all-things-wood” stepped in and… well…. let’s just say I took a few days off. No, it wasn’t a router accident; my belt sander and I had a mis-understanding.

Coming up next – finding the perfect profile.

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Coming Soon!

Lots of great content is on the horizon!

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Merry Christmas! (or Mele Kalikimaka)


This holiday season seemed to kick my behind a little more than usual! It might have been the half dozen different orders I was working on, or the fact that I was working a little handicapped, but regardless, I managed to complete almost everything I started.

One piece I didn’t expect to complete was this sushi board; I’d started it months ago, and couldn’t decide on a few of the last details about it – specifically – the feet and the grout. But someone wandered into the shop, saw it, and purchased it on the spot. That’s good enough motivation for me to make some decisions and finish it.

Every time I tried to work on this, I’d end up getting distracted, so I would finish each session with a coat of oil. I’d venture a guess that this board has fifteen coats on it, the surface is amazing. Better yet, the color you see is it’s absolute natural color – there were no dyes or stains used whatsoever.


I’d would love to tell you more about this wood, but I can’t. This board was purchased at an auction, as were many others. Most were unmarked, but identifiable. This one? At first I thought it might be Sapele, and later, I decided it could be Bubinga. Truth be told? Those are only guesses, and the one small scrap I had is long gone. Unless the owner will let me slice a small piece from the bottom of this board, I don’t think I’ll ever know.

Anyone who is familiar with my tiles knows that I love recesses in them, perfect for holding things – in this case, pickled ginger or wasabi. This tile was slumped in a mold, textured, thrown on the wheel, and managed to fire perfectly round and flat.

Working with clay is nothing like working with wood. With wood, you pretty much know what you’re going to get at the end. With clay, you can envision your results, but unless you can control every single factor along the way (which I can’t!), you don’t know what you’re going to get until the very moment you open the door to the kiln. Most potters equate a kiln opening to Christmas, and I completely understand that!

This stoneware tile was fired to ^6 in an electric kiln, and was glazed with multiple layers of Waterfall Brown and Waterfall Green glaze.


It is a magical glaze on textured work.


Speaking of magic, have yourself a wonderful Christmas!

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Finishing the Chest

Applying the finish to my projects is either super-simple (clear finish on the bare wood) or agonizing.

Because tool chests are supposed to be painted, I knew I was in for a dose of self-induced agony. The first question with a painted piece is: what color? Tool chests run the gamut, from dark brown to dark green, pea (pee?) green to baby-poo green. And there’s blue.

I already own a blue tool chest at work, and I don’t need another. So my first instinct was to paint it red, which would make it look good in pictures. But when it comes to painted furniture, my favorite finish is black milk paint over red milk paint, which is what I use on many chairs. To do this you paint the chair red, then you paint it black and then you let nature run its course. The black paint gets rubbed through, and the red emerges in the areas that see the most wear.

This looks great.

So I decided to paint the tool chest red and see how it looked. If worst came to worst, I could always, in the words of the Rolling Stones, paint it black.

So I applied three coats of red milk paint. I love milk paint. It’s like a mix between a paint and a stain. It doesn’t have a lot of body, so it allows the wood’s texture to show through. That’s a good thing. Unless you left too much texture behind during the construction process.

As this chest was completed by hand, I left a number of tool marks behind. In truth, I didn’t think I’d had left a lot of tool marks, but the first coat of milk paint revealed some plane tracks and saw marks on the edges of the lid’s dust seal.

A couple coats of oil and varnish over the red didn’t improve things, so I prodded my wife, Lucy, to offer her opinion. If you have been married for at least a spell (18 years in this case) then you know how this conversation works.

“It looks great,” she said of the chest.

“It sucks,” I replied, wondering how many time I had put this poor woman through this. “I can see these tool marks and it makes me nuts.”

Lucy looked at the chest for an appropriate amount of time so that one would term it a “thoughtful” gaze. Then she looked me square in the eyes.

“I guess you should figure out how perfect an anarchist would want it,” she said.

? Christopher Schwarz

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Turning Wood

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Wednesday Blogwrap

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A Dedicated Sharpening Bench – part 7

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Moving Forward

With industry there is no coping. More and more it is establishing its own claims, which we are forced to recognize.

But men who have fighting souls will keep intact their freedom to do and be, and there is no better way than the craftsman’s for safeguarding those things.

? The Woodworker, January 1962

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Antique table repair – part one

A few weeks ago, I blogged about repairing an older piece from a dining room set. After that repair was completed, the next step was to tackle the table, which was in very poor shape.


The top was split and bowed, the aprons were falling apart,


not to mention that the table runners


were in terrible shape. Talk about a make-over!

First step – take the sucker apart!

Once everything was removed, it was a little easier to see what had to be remade, and what could be salvaged.

I felt like the old apron and corner pieces had to be saved, even though there was some damage to them. Those are the main parts that tie the piece together with the rest of the pieces, so even if I just used them ornamentally, it was important.

The new table top was to include two halves, plus three new leaves.

Here they are, planed and cut to size. You can see the three leaves in the background.


Duplicating the rounded corner wasn’t too difficult. I traced it on the actual corners, to ensure that I didn’t round off the wrong edge! Now that would be a pisser!


And then I made a pattern for the radius out of a scrap piece of MDF.


A straight bit in the router, with a collar around it will allow me to cut that curve on the corners quite nicely.

The difference between the bit and the collar is 1/8″, I tested it with my set-up blocks.

And once that dimension was determined, I could clamp the pattern to the table top in the precise location.


As the Pioneer Woman would say – easy peasy. Cutting all four corners was simple.

Next step, routing the table top with an appropriate profile. Say that three times fast.

My buddy Danny brought over some ogee bits, since I didn’t have one that I thought would work. But none of his were what I was looking for, either.

Still, I routed a few samples, to make sure.

And then… the “god-of-all-things-wood” stepped in and… well…. let’s just say I took a few days off. No, it wasn’t a router accident; my belt sander and I had a mis-understanding.

Coming up next – finding the perfect profile.

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Around the Woodshop 2010

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Bora 3-Pc. Edge Clamp Set

Cut and rout with greater accuracy! Durable clamps provide a tool guide for circular saws, jig saws, and routers, for cutting sheet material like plywood.

  • Includes 24”, 36”, 50” clamps
  • Swivel head design lets you clamp angles up to 22.5°
  • Soft-grip rubberized clamp pad won’t mar your work

-> Bora 3-Pc. Edge Clamp Set – $129.99

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New Veterinary Office for 4th Avenue

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Lee Valley News

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see more There I Fixed It

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On The Level

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Bora 3-Pc. Edge Clamp Set

Cut and rout with greater accuracy! Durable clamps provide a tool guide for circular saws, jig saws, and routers, for cutting sheet material like plywood.

  • Includes 24”, 36”, 50” clamps
  • Swivel head design lets you clamp angles up to 22.5°
  • Soft-grip rubberized clamp pad won’t mar your work

-> Bora 3-Pc. Edge Clamp Set – $129.99

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Jerusalem Mill

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Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter Adjustable Shelf

You can never be too organized! Add an additional Adjustable Shelf to your Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter and you’ll always have room for that extra tool or accessory. Hang the metal shelf at an optimum height on the Workcenter’s pegboard for the ultimate convenience.


-> Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter Adjustable Shelf – $45.00

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Kreg® Maxi-Loc Hi-Lo Threads

Dual thread design makes this an all-purpose screw for a variety of wood species.

  • Self-tapping auger point
  • Flat head that seats flush
  • Uses a #2 square drive

-> #7 x 1-1/4” Kreg Maxi-Loc Hi-Lo Threads (100 Count) – $4.49
-> #7 x 1-1/4” Kreg Maxi-Loc Hi-Lo Threads (500 per Pack) – $17.99
-> #7 x 1-1/4” Kreg Maxi-Loc Hi-Lo Threads (1000 per Pack) – $26.99

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Adding New Hardware and Features to Existing Cabinets

Adding New Hardware and Features to Existing Cabinets

Peggy asks, ?Can I add features like pull-out drawers and a lazy susan to my existing older cabinets??

While some hardware may need to be modified to fit existing cabinets, many can be installed off the shelf. Read on to find out more.


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Peanut Butter, Jelly and Woodworking Forums

The good thing about the Internet is that you can find tons of information on nearly any subject in seconds. If you can?t find an answer to your specific question, you can find a forum where you can ask, and more experienced people are ready and waiting to share their knowledge. What?s the best way [...]

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Catharine Kennedy: Engravin’ Maven

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Finishing the Chest

Applying the finish to my projects is either super-simple (clear finish on the bare wood) or agonizing.

Because tool chests are supposed to be painted, I knew I was in for a dose of self-induced agony. The first question with a painted piece is: what color? Tool chests run the gamut, from dark brown to dark green, pea (pee?) green to baby-poo green. And there’s blue.

I already own a blue tool chest at work, and I don’t need another. So my first instinct was to paint it red, which would make it look good in pictures. But when it comes to painted furniture, my favorite finish is black milk paint over red milk paint, which is what I use on many chairs. To do this you paint the chair red, then you paint it black and then you let nature run its course. The black paint gets rubbed through, and the red emerges in the areas that see the most wear.

This looks great.

So I decided to paint the tool chest red and see how it looked. If worst came to worst, I could always, in the words of the Rolling Stones, paint it black.

So I applied three coats of red milk paint. I love milk paint. It’s like a mix between a paint and a stain. It doesn’t have a lot of body, so it allows the wood’s texture to show through. That’s a good thing. Unless you left too much texture behind during the construction process.

As this chest was completed by hand, I left a number of tool marks behind. In truth, I didn’t think I’d had left a lot of tool marks, but the first coat of milk paint revealed some plane tracks and saw marks on the edges of the lid’s dust seal.

A couple coats of oil and varnish over the red didn’t improve things, so I prodded my wife, Lucy, to offer her opinion. If you have been married for at least a spell (18 years in this case) then you know how this conversation works.

“It looks great,” she said of the chest.

“It sucks,” I replied, wondering how many time I had put this poor woman through this. “I can see these tool marks and it makes me nuts.”

Lucy looked at the chest for an appropriate amount of time so that one would term it a “thoughtful” gaze. Then she looked me square in the eyes.

“I guess you should figure out how perfect an anarchist would want it,” she said.

? Christopher Schwarz

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The Unplugged Woodshop.com

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New Offerings from Bad Axe

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Making a Level: Part II

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If You Want to Build a Ship

If you want to build a ship, don’t drum up people together to collect wood and don’t assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea.

? Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, (1900-1944) French writer, aviator, (The quote is attributed to Saint-Exupéry; however it appears in only one distinct American translation of “Citadelle.”)

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Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter Universal Double Hook

Hang your heavy tools from your Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter without worry! The Universal Double Hook holds sanders, routers, and other accessories. Each end has a rubber cap that protects all your items from any damage while hanging.


-> Festool WCR 1000 Workcenter Universal Double Hook – $50.00

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Good Deal or Not? ?3 bdrm/2.5 bath penthouse w/ amazing views? edition

This penthouse is located at 27 Logan Circle NW: View Larger Map The flier says: “Spectacular 3 bdrm/2.5 bath penthouse w/ amazing views facing Logan circle out the front windows and wonderful southern city views from the large pvt roofdeck. OPen Living/Dining. Huge MBR. Features incl custom finished floors, vaulted ceilings, custom lighting, open kit, [...]

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Kultura Closes at 4918 Wisconsin Ave, NW to Become Hadeed Carpet Cleaning- Dupont Store Remains Open

4918 Wisconsin Ave, NW Closed About two weeks ago – Kultura’s Tenleytown/Friendship Heights location closed at 4918 Wisconsin Ave, NW. It looks like it will be replaced by Hadeed Carpet Cleaning. I stopped by the Dupont location at 1726 Connecticut Ave, NW to make sure they were still open and indeed they are and have [...]

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Tom?s ?Cool? Clock

A cool clock that truly celebrates nature’s beauty!

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Sign Making Kit with PC 690LR Router and FREE Router Bits

Save $100 on two of our most popular template sets, the legendary Porter Cable 690 Router, and five router bits! The 1-3/4 HP 690 Router is known as a workhorse that lasts year in and year out. The lever release feature lets you make quick and easy height adjustments, especially when table mounted. Plus, it’s just the ticket to go with our 2-1/4″ Signmaker Kits! Create custom signs quickly and easily in a Comic Sans font The templates interlock to form a stable pattern as you rout signs with the included carbide router bits and bushings. You’ll get everything you need to get started including two edge cutting bits, two letter cutting bits, and a keyhole bit to cut a groove to hang your signs.

Porter Cable 690 Router Technical Details:

  • 1-3/4 HP variable speed motor with soft start
  • Variable speed ranges from 10,000 to 27,500 RPM
  • Fixed base features an accurate micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment accurate to 1/128″ (2 mm)
  • Lever release height adjustment
  • Includes both 1/2” and 1/4″ collets, collet wrenches

Porter Cable Router Bit Technical Details:

  • 1/4″ classical edge cutting bit
  • 5/32″ Roman ogee edge cutting bit
  • 1/8″ straight letter cutting bit
  • 1/4″ 90° V-groove letter cutting bit
  • 25/64″ keyhole bit to cut grooves for hanging your signs

Signmaker Kit Technical Details:

  • You get a total of 40 plastic templates, (37 letters 2-1/4″ high with duplicates of common letters and three spacers).
  • Requires the use of a plunge router that accepts standard 1-3/16″ template guides
  • Includes free plastic guide bushings that will fit most router bases
  • Letters include: A, A, B, C, D, E, E, F, G, H, I, I, J, K, L, L, M, M, N, N, O, O, P, P, Q, R, R, S, S, T, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z, ?, and three spacers
  • Secure patterns to your work surface with masking tape or use our 1/2″ or 1″ Self-Adhesive Discs (23138, 28363) or double stick tape

Don’t delay! Quantities are limited!
Please note: This item will be available to ship approximately Wednesday, March 16th.


-> Sign Making Kit with PC 690LR Router and FREE Router Bits – SALE: $179.99
-> 1/2” Self-Adhesive Discs (300 pk.) – SALE: $1.24
-> 1” Self-Adhesive Discs (120 pk.) – SALE: $1.24

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Save Time with a Quick Change Drill Drive Set

Quick Change Drill DrivePerhaps my favorite woodworking accessory for the power drill is the quick change drill drive set. This one bit/accessory can pre-drill a hole, drill a countersink and then drill …

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A Dedicated Sharpening Bench- part 1

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Common Questions Only You Can Answer!

There are just some questions other people can’t answer for you!

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Huge Beer Garden Coming to the South Slope?

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If You Want to Build a Ship

If you want to build a ship, don’t drum up people together to collect wood and don’t assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea.

? Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, (1900-1944) French writer, aviator, (The quote is attributed to Saint-Exupéry; however it appears in only one distinct American translation of “Citadelle.”)

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Apollo and Woodcraft Join Forces

The two companies haven?t merged (that?s so 1990s). Woodcraft stores are now going to carry Apollo Sprayer Turbine Systems and Conversion guns. The two companies are working closely to develop an education system to help everyone achieve the optimal finish for their projects. In addition, Woodcraft store staff and the technical and phone support staff [...]

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Open House Picks: Six Months Later

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Short Bench Support

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Step Right Up and Feast Your Eyes

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Mistake-free Woodworking

One of the best ways to learn woodworking is to get out in the shop and build. The more you work at it the better, but you know that along the way you’ll make a few mistakes. It’s my opinion that those mistakes are OK because you learn how things went wrong and hopefully you [...]

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